Craft guides · 2026-06-27
Patreon for chainmaille creators: aspect ratio documentation, weave-specific AR ranges, ring gauge selection, closure technique, iOS rates, and the Apple Tax in 2026
Chainmaille creators build Patreon retention when they document the aspect ratio and ring specification variables that make their weave patterns reproducible: measured inner diameter and wire diameter with calipers (not supplier-stated nominal values), the calculated AR for each ring set, whether that AR falls within the functional range for the weave, metal-specific springback observations, and the closure technique that produces a clean seam. Chainmaille jewelry audiences are Instagram and TikTok-primary with above-average iOS rates — Apple Tax exposure begins November 1, 2026.
Chainmaille creator types on Patreon
Chainmaille practice covers two main areas with distinct Patreon documentation needs. Chainmaille jewelry makers and pattern designers create wearable jewelry pieces in aluminum, sterling silver, copper, niobium, and titanium jump rings and document the weave-specific ring specifications that make their original pattern designs reproducible by patrons using the same or equivalent materials. Historical armorer and reenactment chainmaille makers create historically accurate butted-ring maille pieces for living history, reenactment, and display and document construction methods, material selection, and density specifications that match documented historical examples.
Aspect ratio documentation
AR = inner diameter ÷ wire diameter: why both must be measured
Aspect ratio (AR) is the ratio of the ring’s inner diameter to the wire diameter from which the ring is made: AR = ID ÷ wire diameter. It is the single most important specification for chainmaille because every weave pattern has a functional AR range — a range of AR values within which the weave can be assembled and will lie correctly with proper visual density. An AR below the minimum for a given weave means rings cannot be threaded through the existing weave without deforming or cannot close in the correct position; an AR above the maximum means the weave is too loose, the rings move excessively, and the fabric looks incorrect. The functional AR range is a property of the weave geometry, not of the material, and applies regardless of ring size: a Byzantine weave made from 18 AWG sterling and from 24 AWG aluminum aluminum must both have AR values within the same range (approximately 3.0–3.5 for Byzantine) to produce the same weave structure, even though the ring sizes differ dramatically.
Both measurements must be taken with calipers rather than accepted from supplier labels, because supplier-stated dimensions are nominal values subject to manufacturing tolerance. Ring inner diameter (ID) should be measured with digital calipers across the interior of a closed ring at three orientations (if the ring is not perfectly circular due to mandrel shape or springback, the measurements will vary) and averaged. Wire diameter should be measured from a fresh cut end of the wire stock using the calipers’ jaw measurement. An 18 AWG nominal wire measures 1.024 mm, 20 AWG measures 0.812 mm, and 22 AWG measures 0.644 mm — but individual wire lots may deviate from these values. Document the measured wire diameter alongside the AWG nominal value to capture the actual material used.
Weave-specific AR ranges and functional testing
The functional AR range for common chainmaille weaves reflects the minimum ring openness needed to thread the weave and the maximum openness that still produces correct closure and density. Byzantine weave (a locked weave with pairs of connector rings and pairs of capture rings in a complex crossing pattern) requires AR 3.0–3.5. Below 3.0, the connector rings cannot be folded and locked correctly; above 3.5, the folded sections are too loose and the weave can collapse under tension. Box chain (a square-cross-section weave built from stacked ring pairs at 90° to each other) requires AR 3.7–4.2. Full Persian (a complex double-row weave with each ring passing through four others) requires AR 4.8–5.5 and is sensitive to AR variation — rings at the upper end of the range produce a more open, drapey fabric while rings at the lower end produce a denser, stiffer fabric.
Document the AR test result alongside the specification: after measuring ID and wire diameter and calculating AR, attempt the first unit of the weave with the rings in question. Note whether the AR falls within the functional range and whether the weave assembled correctly (connector rings folded and locked without forcing; rings closed in correct position without leaving visible gaps; weave lay flat without twisting). If the AR is at the edge of the functional range, note which direction it errs — slightly too tight (below minimum) or slightly too loose (above maximum) — and what adjustment corrects it. This functional testing documentation is the calibration data that patrons cannot derive from published AR tables without running the same tests on their own ring stock.
Ring gauge and metal type documentation
AWG gauge values and millimeter equivalents
Chainmaille creators should document ring gauge in both AWG and millimeters because suppliers use both systems and international patrons may work from either. The commonly used gauges in chainmaille jewelry and their millimeter equivalents: 18 AWG: 1.024 mm diameter — heavy structural wire for large-scale weaves, Byzantine in larger sizes, and connector elements in complex patterns. 20 AWG: 0.812 mm — the most common gauge for mid-scale chainmaille jewelry; Box chain, Byzantine at medium scale, and many Persian weaves. 22 AWG: 0.644 mm — lighter wire for small-scale weaves, finer Byzantine, and detail rings in multi-gauge designs. For reenactment and armorer maille, heavier gauges (14–16 AWG in mild steel or aluminum) are standard; document both the AWG and the millimeter equivalent because reenactment suppliers may specify in millimeters or SWG (British Standard Wire Gauge), which differs from AWG.
Metal-specific springback and AR adjustment
Springback during ring closure affects functional AR because a ring that springs back slightly after closing has a functionally larger inner diameter than its as-wound measurement suggests. Sterling silver (92.5% silver, 7.5% copper) has a higher tensile strength and yield strength than pure aluminum (typically the 5xxx or 1xxx series aluminum used in jewelry-grade aluminum wire) or copper. When a sterling ring is bent closed and released, its elastic recovery is greater than for aluminum at the same gauge — the ring springs back slightly from the fully closed position. The practical consequence: a Byzantine weave using 18 AWG sterling silver rings may require rings wound on a larger mandrel than the minimum AR calculation suggests, because the springback effectively opens the ring slightly from the mandrel diameter. This is not a fixed correction value — it varies with alloy, temper, gauge, and the degree of bending required to close the ring — so it must be measured and documented per ring batch. The documentation protocol: wind rings on the target mandrel, close a sample ring completely, and measure the inner diameter of the closed ring with calipers. Compare this measured post-springback ID to the mandrel diameter; the difference is the springback factor for this ring stock.
Closure technique: flush cutters vs lap joint cutters
The tool used to cut rings from a coiled wire determines the shape of the cut end, which in turn determines how cleanly the ring can be closed. Flush cutters (side cutters with one flat face and one beveled face) produce a cut with one flat end and one pinched, slightly wedge-shaped end on the opposite side of the cut. For chainmaille, rings should be cut using the flat face of the flush cutter toward the ring being retained (so the ring gets the flat-ended cut) and the pinched-end cut going to scrap. A ring closed with two flat cut ends mates at a clean, parallel seam. A ring with a pinched or beveled end produces a step at the seam that creates visible light gaps and can catch on adjacent rings during wear.
Lap joint (also called “Xuron” style or flush-from-both-sides) cutters produce a flush cut on both sides of the blade, eliminating the wedge end. Rings cut with lap joint cutters have two flat ends and produce the cleanest possible seam when closed correctly. The trade-off is that lap joint cutters are more expensive than standard flush cutters and dull faster because the flat-both-sides geometry requires more precise blade alignment. Document the cutter type used for each tutorial or pattern, and specify which face of a flush cutter (if used) is oriented toward the ring to ensure patrons achieve the expected seam quality. For highest-quality presentational chainmaille in sterling silver, lap joint cutters and careful seam closure (the ring ends should be slightly over-closed and then released to spring back to flush, rather than closed to flush and released to spring open slightly) is the preferred technique.
Historical and reenactment chainmaille documentation
4-in-2 construction and ring overlap ratios for period accuracy
Historical European chainmail from the medieval period was typically constructed using a 4-in-1 or 4-in-2 weave structure with butted (not riveted) or riveted rings depending on the period and regional tradition. The 4-in-1 weave, in which each ring passes through four others in a specific directional pattern, is the dominant construction for European maille found in archaeological contexts from the migration period through the high medieval period. The 4-in-2 variant uses pairs of rings in each direction rather than single rings, producing a denser, heavier fabric that provides greater puncture resistance. Document which weave structure is being used and whether riveted rings (more historically accurate for high medieval European armour from approximately the 11th–15th centuries) or butted rings (more practical for modern reenactment construction) are being made.
Ring overlap ratio — the degree to which rings overlap when the maille is lying flat at rest — is the documentation variable for period accuracy in reenactment maille. Higher overlap ratio produces denser, heavier maille with better coverage; lower overlap ratio produces lighter, less dense fabric. Document the ring gauge, inner diameter, the calculated AR, and the measured overlap ratio in the finished fabric (overlap can be estimated as the fraction of each ring diameter that is covered by adjacent rings when the fabric lies flat). For authenticity documentation in living history contexts, compare the documented specifications against published archaeological ring measurements from extant examples in museum collections where available.
Material selection for reenactment chainmaille involves a different set of priorities than for jewelry. Mild steel (low-carbon steel wire) is period-accurate for most European contexts but requires rust prevention: a light oil coat or wax coat on finished maille prevents surface rust. Galvanized steel wire (zinc-coated mild steel) is a lower-maintenance alternative that resists rust without periodic oiling, but the zinc coating is not historically accurate and changes the visual appearance. Aluminum is lightweight and rust-free, making it practical for frequently worn reenactment garments and theatrical applications, but is significantly lighter than period steel maille — document the weight of a finished maille piece in grams alongside the material specification so patrons can compare against period weight references.
Tier structure for chainmaille creators
Pattern Notes tier ($12–18/month): ring specification documentation for each pattern (AWG, measured ID, measured wire diameter, calculated AR, tested weave and AR result), closure technique used, metal type rationale, step-count per unit of the weave, and close-up photographs of the finished fabric texture and seam quality. Weave Workshop tier ($35–55/month, capped at 8 patrons): same documentation plus printable pattern PDFs with illustrated ring-by-ring steps, mandrel size specifications for ring-making, and a monthly consultation session where patrons submit photographs of their maille in progress for technique diagnosis. Armorer Notes tier for historical maille ($15–22/month): construction documentation (weave type, ring gauge in mm, AR, overlap ratio, butted vs riveted), material selection notes with weight per square foot measurements, and comparison notes to documented historical examples.
Apple Tax for chainmaille creator audiences
Instagram chainmaille jewelry and finished piece photography: 70–82% iOS. TikTok chainmaille jewelry process videos: 72–84% iOS. YouTube chainmaille tutorials: 50–63% iOS. Apple Tax on November 1, 2026: at $200/month with 68% iOS: approximately $40.80/month ($489.60/year); at $350/month with 72% iOS: approximately $75.60/month ($907.20/year). Enable Patreon’s web-only billing toggle before October 31, 2026 and update all Instagram and TikTok bio links to the Patreon web URL. Verify from Safari on iPhone that each link produces a web payment dialog before November 1.
KeepTier is a self-hosted membership page for creators who want 100% of their tier revenue and zero Apple Tax. Plans from $9/month.
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