What is aspect ratio in chain maille, and how does it determine which weaves are possible?

Aspect ratio (AR) is the single most important parameter in chain maille and the first concept that any chain maille Patreon creator must teach clearly. AR = inner diameter of the jump ring ÷ wire diameter of the jump ring. Both measurements must be in the same unit (millimeters is standard). Example: a jump ring wound on a 6mm mandrel using 18 AWG wire (approximately 1.0mm diameter) has an AR of 6.0 ÷ 1.0 = 6.0. Every chain maille weave has a specific AR range that makes it work: if the AR is too low (rings too small for the wire), the rings cannot physically pass through each other; if the AR is too high (rings too large for the wire), the weave has no structural integrity and the rings shift and gap. The AR ranges for common weaves: box chain (simple chain using rings alternating vertical and horizontal orientation) works at AR approximately 3.5 to 4.0; European 4-in-1 (the classic flat mesh where each ring passes through 4 others in a 2-over-2-under pattern) works at AR approximately 4.0 to 5.0; Byzantine (the complex 8-ring unit that forms the characteristic knotted look) requires AR approximately 3.5 to 3.9 — a tighter range than most weaves, meaning Byzantine is more sensitive to ring accuracy than simpler weaves; Helm chain (also called parallel chain, with two parallel rows of rings connected by perpendicular connector rings) works at AR approximately 4.0 to 5.0; Japanese 4-in-1 (flat sheet weave with rings oriented in compass directions, each ring connecting to four others at 90-degree positions) works at AR approximately 3.5 to 4.5; Full Persian (a dense round cylindrical chain that requires rings to pass through many others simultaneously during construction) requires AR approximately 3.5 to 4.0. For Patreon creators, presenting AR clearly with a reference chart — specific ring size and wire gauge combinations tested for common weaves — resolves the single largest source of subscriber frustration, which is buying rings that don't work for a pattern because the AR was not explicitly specified.

How should chain maille creators structure Patreon tiers, and what is the Apple Tax impact on their revenue?

Chain maille Patreon tiers should reflect both the weave complexity progression and the metal selection progression, since beginners typically start in copper (affordable, appropriate for learning) and graduate to sterling or argentium as their skills become more reliable. Tier 1 — Copper ($12–15/month): monthly pattern for a simple-to-intermediate weave in copper or anodized aluminum jump rings — box chain bracelet, European 4-in-1 bracelet or earrings, Helm chain choker — with full AR specification, ring count, and closing technique notes. Copper-and-aluminum patterns serve the largest new-subscriber audience: learners who want to develop skills before committing to sterling silver ring costs. The pattern should specify ring AR explicitly, with notes on commercial pre-cut ring sources that are verified to match the required AR. Tier 2 — Sterling ($28–35/month): monthly pattern plus video demonstrating the specific weave mechanics for the month's design — Byzantine unit construction sequence, Japanese 4-in-1 sheet expansion, Full Persian ring threading order — filmed from a top-down camera angle with adequate lighting to show individual ring orientations. Chain maille video instruction benefits from a fixed overhead angle that shows the evolving ring arrangement clearly, since the weave's geometry is the instructional content. Video should also cover polishing methods (tumbler polishing argentium and sterling vs copper, liver-of-sulfur patination for sterling as a darkening treatment, polishing cloth for immediate shine). Tier 3 — Designer ($50–65/month): monthly pattern and video plus a design module covering custom ring making (selecting wire gauge and mandrel for a target AR, coiling wire, cutting with flush cutters), scaling weaves to new ring sizes while maintaining AR, weave combination techniques (mixing two weave families in a single piece), or finishing and findings (clasp types for different chain weights, cold connection vs soldering for pendant attachments). Apple Tax impact at $28/month, 68% iOS reach (jewelry-making audiences on YouTube are 62–74% iOS; Instagram craft jewelry accounts 70–78% iOS), 65 subscribers: $28 × 0.68 × 0.30 = $5.71 per subscriber/month × 65 = $371.28/month ($4,455.36/year) permanently lost to Apple IAP after November 2026. KeepTier web checkout routes new subscriptions outside Apple's system; a YouTube description link or Instagram bio link to the KeepTier page captures the full subscription amount minus Stripe's standard processing fee.

Patreon for chain maille jewelry creators: aspect ratio, weave families (Byzantine, box chain, Helm, Japanese 4-in-1, Full Persian), jump ring opening technique, metal selection, and Apple Tax impact in 2026

2026-07-30 · KeepTier

Chain maille jewelry is built from jump rings connected in specific geometric patterns called weaves. Every weave has an aspect ratio (AR) requirement — the ratio of ring inner diameter to wire diameter — that determines whether the weave is structurally possible with a given ring. Getting the AR right is the first skill any chain maille creator must teach, and demonstrating weave mechanics in video is irreplaceable because the ring-orientation sequences that define complex weaves like Byzantine or Full Persian cannot be communicated adequately in still photographs. For Patreon creators, this combination of precise technical content and high visual impact makes chain maille a strong niche for a video-first subscription.

Aspect ratio and weave families

AR = inner diameter ÷ wire diameter. Box chain requires AR approximately 3.5–4.0; European 4-in-1 flat mesh approximately 4.0–5.0; Byzantine approximately 3.5–3.9 (narrow range — ring accuracy critical); Helm chain approximately 4.0–5.0; Japanese 4-in-1 approximately 3.5–4.5; Full Persian approximately 3.5–4.0. Jump rings must be opened by rotating one side forward and the other backward — never pulling outward, which permanently distorts the ring profile and prevents flush closure. Metal selection: copper for practice, argentium and sterling silver for finished jewelry, niobium for hypoallergenic ear findings, anodized aluminum for color variety at low cost.

Tier structure

Tier 1 — Copper ($12–15/month): monthly pattern for a simple weave in copper or aluminum, AR explicitly specified. Tier 2 — Sterling ($28–35/month): monthly pattern plus video demonstrating the weave sequence with overhead camera. Tier 3 — Designer ($50–65/month): monthly pattern, video, and design module covering custom ring making, AR calculation, and weave combination techniques.

Apple Tax: what chain maille jewelry Patreon creators lose from November 2026

At $28/month, 68% iOS reach, and 65 subscribers: $28 × 0.68 × 0.30 = $5.71 per subscriber per month lost to Apple IAP — $371.28/month ($4,455.36/year) permanently after November 1, 2026. KeepTier provides web checkout outside Apple’s IAP system, capturing the full subscription amount minus Stripe’s standard 2.9% + $0.30 fee.

See the KeepTier blog for Apple Tax analysis across craft and maker creator categories.