Guides · 2026-06-26

Patreon for stained glass creators: glass cutting documentation, foiling vs lead came structural decisions, soldering mechanics, iOS rates, and the Apple Tax in 2026

Stained glass Patreons retain when they document the technical decisions behind each panel — the scoring technique calibration, the structural method rationale, the soldering mechanics documented at the iron temperature and bead type level. Stained glass audiences are YouTube and Instagram-primary with moderate to high iOS rates; Apple Tax exposure begins November 1, 2026.

What stained glass creators offer on Patreon

Stained glass creators on Patreon build retention when they document the decisions behind each piece. The process video shows the cutter wheel moving across the glass and the solder flowing smoothly; the Patreon post explains why this glass was cut with a specific pressure and oil lubrication, why lead came was chosen over copper foil for this panel, and how the soldering temperature was calibrated for this solder composition.

A two-tier structure suits most stained glass educators. Process Documentation tier ($12–20/month): cutting records, structural method rationale, soldering technique notes, and finished-piece photography with both transmission (light through the glass) and reflection (glass in room light) photographs for each project. Pattern and Consultation tier ($30–50/month, capped 8–10 patrons): same documentation plus original pattern PDF delivery for each project and a quarterly project review — patron submits a photograph of their current piece with a description of the problem they are encountering, and the creator identifies the technique issue and suggests a correction.

Glass cutting: scoring technique and break mechanics

Glass cutter documentation begins with the scoring sound and scratch appearance, which are the primary feedback mechanisms for correct pressure calibration. A correct score produces a clean hissing sound as the cutter wheel rolls through the glass; too much pressure produces a grinding or crunching sound and crushes the glass edge rather than scribing it cleanly; too little pressure produces a faint or silent scratch that will not break predictably.

The visual appearance of the score line confirms the sound assessment: a correctly scored line appears as a faint white scratch with no visible glass powder or chipping on either side. Visible chipping on both sides of the score line indicates excessive pressure; a barely visible or absent white line indicates insufficient pressure. Document the glass type and thickness being scored (cathedral glass, opalescent glass, textured glass, and English streaky glass all have different surface hardness and require slight pressure adjustments) and the score appearance for each type.

Oil lubrication is the second cutting variable: the cutter wheel requires light oil to reduce friction and extend the wheel’s functional life. Self-oiling cutters hold oil in a handle reservoir and apply it automatically through a wick; traditional steel wheel cutters require manual oiling before each scoring session. Document the oil type (cutting oil, kerosene, or light mineral oil) and the interval (every three to five cuts for non-self-oiling cutters). Patrons who are using an older cutter without an oil reservoir and scoring dry will encounter premature wheel wear and inconsistent breaks without knowing why; the documentation teaches the variable they are missing.

Break mechanics for straight cuts differ from curved cuts. Straight cuts: break over a dowel, breaking pliers, or the edge of the workbench immediately after scoring (within a minute, while the score is fresh). Curved cuts require running the score before breaking — tapping along the underside of the score line with the ball end of the cutter, starting from one end and working toward the other, to propagate a crack through the glass thickness without breaking through. After running the score, gently flex the glass along the score line. Document which break technique was used for each difficult cut in a project, because the break mechanics are where new stained glass makers most commonly lose glass to unexpected fractures.

Foiling vs lead came: structural decision documentation

The structural method decision is one of the most instructive pieces of documentation a stained glass Patreon can deliver, because tutorials typically teach one method or the other without explaining the criteria for choosing between them. The explicit rationale stated for each project teaches patrons to make the decision for their own work.

Copper foil (Tiffany method) is appropriate for pieces with complex curves, small glass pieces, intricate designs with many tight angles, and three-dimensional forms (lampshades, decorative boxes, jewelry). The copper foil wraps each individual glass piece; the solder bonds to the foil and bridges between adjacent pieces; the solder joint is narrow enough to follow complex curves. Copper foil is not appropriate for large exterior panels where thermal expansion and structural load are significant concerns, because the foil and solder provide only limited structural support for heavy glass panels exposed to temperature cycling.

Lead came is appropriate for larger pieces, designs with primarily straight or gently curved lines, exterior installation, and traditionally styled architectural work. The lead channel holds each glass piece mechanically (the glass is inserted into the channel groove); the solder at each joint bonds the lead came to itself, not primarily to the glass. Lead came panels handle thermal expansion better than foil panels for large exterior applications because the soft lead accommodates glass movement. Lead came is not practical for tight curves and small piece sizes because the channel width creates a visible border that is too wide for intricate patterns.

Document the decision for each project with the relevant criteria: piece dimensions, number of glass pieces, the complexity of the curves in the design, the intended installation (interior sunlight exposure only, exterior glazed opening, greenhouse, or three-dimensional form), and the structural load consideration. “I used copper foil for this 12×16 inch panel because the design includes tight curves in the floral elements and seven pieces smaller than one inch across, both of which require the narrow solder line that foiling provides” teaches the threshold more clearly than any general description.

Soldering documentation: iron temperature, flux, bead mechanics

Soldering documentation covers four elements: iron temperature calibration, flux type and application, the bead construction sequence, and the cleaning protocol.

Iron temperature calibration: 60/40 solder (60% tin, 40% lead) flows at approximately 180–190°C; the iron tip should be at 260–315°C for normal stained glass soldering. Too cold: the solder does not flow onto the copper foil cleanly, producing a grainy, matte bead with poor adhesion. Too hot: the solder flows excessively, spreads beyond the foil, and may pit as it cools too rapidly. Document the iron temperature setting used and the iron brand and tip type, because tip condition and tip geometry affect the working temperature at the glass surface significantly. A freshly tinned tip transfers heat more efficiently than an oxidized tip at the same nominal setting.

Flux type and application: liquid flux (zinc chloride-based) activates the copper foil surface and allows solder to wet and bond. Apply fresh before soldering; flux that has sat on the glass for more than a few minutes may oxidize and provide inadequate activation. Document the flux type, application method (brush, syringe, or flux pen), and the area coverage — some creators apply flux to the entire piece before starting; others apply section by section to prevent the flux from drying or oxidizing before the iron reaches it. Cleaning protocol after soldering is non-negotiable: residual flux is corrosive and must be removed completely. Document the cleaning solution (neutralizing wash with baking soda and water, rinse, then dry) and the timing (clean within an hour of completion).

Flat bead vs raised bead: the back of a panel receives a flat bead — a thin, smooth layer of solder covering the foil edges, providing structural bonding without building up above the surface. The front of a panel receives a raised bead — a rounded dome built up above the foil width, covering the foil completely and producing the characteristic solder line appearance. The iron motion for a raised bead: tip moves smoothly along the solder line without stopping; solder fed continuously from the spool; just enough heat to keep the solder flowing without overheating. Document the motion type (continuous motion vs stop-and-flow), the solder feed rate, and any areas of the piece where bead construction required a different technique (tight angles, small pieces with converging foil lines, areas near the panel edge).

Tipping sequence: the tining pass (or tacking pass) lays a thin first layer of solder to bond the foil surfaces before the bead is built. Trying to build a raised bead without first tining the foil typically produces a lumpy uneven bead because the solder pools at spots where the foil was not pre-bonded. Document whether tining was done as a separate pass.

Apple Tax for stained glass creator audiences

Stained glass creator iOS rates by platform: YouTube stained glass tutorials, 55–65% iOS. Instagram finished panel photography, 70–80% iOS. TikTok stained glass creation, 70–80% iOS.

The Apple Tax on November 1, 2026: at $300/month with 60% iOS, approximately $54/month ($648/year). At $400/month with 65% iOS: approximately $78/month ($936/year). At $200/month with 70% iOS (Instagram-primary creator): approximately $42/month ($504/year).

Enable Patreon’s web-only billing toggle before October 31, 2026. Update all bio links to the Patreon web URL. Verify with a test subscription from Safari on iPhone.


More explainers on Patreon fees and Apple Tax · Patreon for visual artists · Patreon for watercolor artists


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